Fence Post Spacing: How Far Apart Should Posts Be?
For most wood fences, posts go 6 to 8 feet apart, measured center to center. Other fence types have their own rules: vinyl and metal panels set the spacing for you, chain link line posts can be farther apart, and farm wire fences farther still. This guide covers typical spacing by fence type, how to space posts evenly on a run that doesn't divide neatly, how deep to set them, and how much concrete each post needs.
Last updated 2026-11-12. Check local codes, HOA rules and the manufacturer's instructions for your fence system.
Typical post spacing by fence type
| Fence type | Typical spacing (on center) | What sets it |
|---|---|---|
| Wood privacy fence | 6–8 ft | Rail length; wind load |
| Wood picket fence | 6–8 ft | Rail length |
| Split rail | Rail length, often around 10–11 ft | Pre-mortised rails and posts |
| Vinyl (PVC) panels | Panel width, commonly 6 or 8 ft | Manufacturer's panel and post system |
| Aluminum / steel ornamental | Panel width, often about 6 ft | Manufacturer's panels |
| Chain link | Line posts up to about 10 ft | Fabric tension, fence height |
| Welded wire or field fence (T-posts) | Often 8–12 ft | Livestock pressure, terrain |
These are common practice ranges. For panel systems, always follow the installation guide: the posts have to land exactly where the panels end, so measure from the actual panels rather than the advertised width.
Why 8 ft is the usual maximum for wood
Wood rails are widely sold in 8 ft lengths, so posts 8 ft apart let each rail span exactly one section with no splicing. Longer spans also sag: a 2 × 4 rail carrying heavy pickets bends more between posts, and in wind a privacy fence acts like a sail, putting a big load on every post. Many builders use 6 ft spacing for tall privacy fences in exposed, windy locations, or where the soil is soft, to keep the fence straight and stiff for longer.
Spacing posts evenly on any run
Real fence lines are rarely a multiple of 8 ft. Instead of seven full sections and one awkward short one, divide the run into equal sections no longer than your maximum spacing.
- Measure the run between end or corner posts, center to center.
- Divide by your maximum spacing and round up to get the number of sections.
- Divide the run by the number of sections to get the actual spacing.
- Posts = sections + 1 for a single straight run.
Worked example: a 150 ft run
- 150 ÷ 8 = 18.75, so 19 sections.
- 150 ÷ 19 = 7.89 ft, or about 7 ft 10 11/16 in between post centers.
- Posts: 19 + 1 = 20 posts.
Each rail is then cut to a little under 8 ft, using nearly all of a standard rail. The fence calculator uses the same rounding to count posts, rails and pickets.
Corners, ends and multiple runs
For an L-shaped or U-shaped fence, treat each straight run separately, but count shared corner posts once. A three-sided backyard fence with runs of 60, 100 and 60 ft at 8 ft max spacing has 8 + 13 + 8 = 29 sections. Each run would need sections + 1 posts if calculated alone (9 + 14 + 9 = 32), but the two corners are shared, so the total is 30 posts.
Planning around gates
Lay out gate openings first and space the rest of the fence around them. A gate needs a post on each side, set at the gate width plus the clearance the hinge and latch hardware specify (often around half an inch to an inch in total; check the hardware instructions). Because gate posts take the gate's weight and the leverage of it swinging, they are usually heavier: 6 × 6 posts instead of 4 × 4 are common for wide or heavy gates, set deeper and in more concrete.
How deep to set fence posts
| Fence height above ground | Typical minimum depth | Common post length |
|---|---|---|
| 3–4 ft (picket) | 2 ft | 6 ft |
| 5 ft | 2–2.5 ft | 8 ft |
| 6 ft (privacy) | 2–3 ft | 8–9 ft |
| 8 ft | 3 ft or more | 10–12 ft |
The rule of thumb is to bury one-third to one-half of the above-ground height. In areas where the ground freezes, the deciding factor is often the frost line: if the bottom of the post sits above it, freezing soil can lift the post a little each winter. Your local building department can tell you the frost depth for your area.
A typical hole is about three times the post's width in diameter: 10 to 12 in for a 4 × 4 post (3.5 in actual) and 12 to 16 in for a 6 × 6. A few inches of gravel at the bottom lets water drain away from the end grain of the post.
Concrete per post: worked example
A 4 × 4 post set in a 10 in diameter hole, 30 in deep, with 6 in of gravel at the bottom and 24 in of concrete above it:
- Concrete column volume: π × (5 in ÷ 12)² × 2 ft ≈ 1.09 cu ft.
- Minus the post: 3.5 × 3.5 in × 24 in ÷ 1,728 ≈ 0.17 cu ft.
- Concrete needed: about 0.92 cu ft per post, or 1.5 bags of 80 lb mix (0.60 cu ft each), so 2 bags per post unless you share part-bags between holes.
- Gravel: π × (5 ÷ 12)² × 0.5 ft ≈ 0.27 cu ft per hole.
For the 20-post run above, that is about 18.4 cu ft of concrete, roughly 31 bags of 80 lb mix if you mix bags across holes, plus about 5.5 cu ft of gravel. Use the round column option in the concrete calculator with your hole size and post count; it doesn't subtract the post, which gives you a small safety margin.
Some builders set posts in compacted gravel instead of concrete for easier replacement and better drainage; it works well in firm soil, especially for wood posts. Follow local practice and the fence maker's instructions.
Layout tips
- Call 811 before digging (in the US) so buried utilities are marked.
- Confirm the property line and any setback or height rules before you set the first post.
- Set end and corner posts first, run a tight string line between them, then set line posts to the string.
- Check plumb on two faces of every post while the concrete is still workable.
- Measure on center, not between faces, so rails land on the middle of each post.
With post spacing decided, enter your run length, spacing, picket size and gates in the fence calculator to get the full material list.